It was April 2022 when we stood on the deck of the MS Virgo, the ship that hosted us on an unforgettable Svalbard photography trip. I asked Daisy Gilardini, a professional photographer specializing in the Arctic and Antarctic regions, if she had to choose one final trip, would she go to the Arctic or Antarctica? Without hesitation, she answered: “Antarctica.”

That was all we needed to hear. We turned to Jenny from Amazing Views, the organizer of our Svalbard trip, and told her: “You must organize a trip to Antarctica.”

Twelve months later, we received the news: Amazing Views was partnering with Wildfoto Travel to organize a photography expedition to Antarctica on a small boat with a maximum of 50 clients. This was a trip designed specifically for photographers. There was no question—we had to go.

Getting There

In January 2024, our adventure began. We flew with Lufthansa via Frankfurt to Buenos Aires and then onward to Ushuaia, where we had two days before boarding our ship, the Polar Pioneer. Our group consisted of six people, along with Jenny, the co-founder of Amazing Views. In total, there were 49 guests on the expedition.

The Drake Passage

Our journey started with a rough crossing. The Drake Passage is infamous for its turbulent seas, and we experienced its full force. The waves were as high as our ship. The storm was so intense that we couldn’t sail directly toward the Antarctic Peninsula. Instead, we had to steer eastward to face the waves at a 90-degree angle. This detour cost us valuable time before we could finally set course for Antarctica.

With the right medication and by lying flat in our cabin, we managed. However, some guests remained unseen for two full days, struggling with seasickness. Walking around the ship was a challenge, to say the least.

Thankfully, as soon as we reached the first islands of the Antarctic Peninsula, the sea became completely calm—and remained so for the rest of our stay. It wasn’t until our return journey through the Drake Passage that we encountered rough waters again.

The Ship

The Polar Pioneer is not one of the luxury cruise liners that frequent Antarctica, but it was perfect for our needs as photographers.

The cabins were small and basic but provided everything we needed. Some had private bathrooms, while others—including ours—had shared facilities. A simple matter of budget choices!

The Tour Operators

We are repeat travelers with Amazing Views, a Swiss photography travel agency founded by Jenny and Thomas Brühlmann. We’ve done many trips with them, and they have always been outstanding. Typically, their trips feature two guides: a professional photographer from Switzerland and a local photography expert.

This trip was slightly different since Amazing Views was not the main operator. Wildphoto Travel, the lead organizer, had four professional photographers on board. They not only guided us but also gave lectures and piloted the zodiacs during landings and cruises. We were already familiar with Wildphoto from our previous Svalbard trip, which they had also organized.

The combination of Wildphoto and Amazing Views resulted in a truly unforgettable trip.

Exploring the Antarctic Peninsula

Once we arrived at the Antarctic Peninsula, our itinerary remained flexible, adapting to weather conditions. However, all landings needed to be pre-booked, as ships must reserve landing slots to ensure that only one vessel is present at a location at any given time.

Each day consisted of two to three activities—landings, zodiac cruises, or sometimes just scenic sailing aboard the Polar Pioneer.

Zodiac Cruises

We dedicated two full mornings to whale-watching excursions in the zodiacs. We also cruised among icebergs, photographing them and the wildlife perched on them. Because our zodiac pilots were professional photographers, they knew exactly how to position the boats for the best angles. They also ensured that everyone on board had the opportunity to capture the perfect shot.

Another zodiac having some action ongoing

The fluke of a humpback whale right in front of the zodiac. Always good to have a wider lense on the second body

Sailing through icebergs with the zodiac 

Landings

The landings were, of course, the highlight of the trip. The penguin colonies were simply mesmerizing. We were free to walk among them, although we were instructed to maintain a minimum distance. The only problem? No one told the penguins about this rule! They frequently approached us, making for incredible photo opportunities. However, there was one thing we couldn’t ignore—the overwhelming smell. Penguin colonies have a distinct, pungent odor due to their guano, which permeates the air and lingers on clothing long after you leave. It was a small price to pay for witnessing these incredible creatures up close.

Adelie Pengiun chicks

Chinstrap Penguin on the way to the water

Boat Cruises

At times, we stayed on the Polar Pioneer and photographed from its deck—particularly when we traversed stunning channels with breathtaking landscapes.

Early morning light on the mountains photographed from the deck of the Polar Pioneer

The Wildlife

The abundance of wildlife was staggering. Our journey began with albatrosses and other seabirds soaring around the ship during the Drake Passage. Once in Antarctica, life was everywhere—humpback whales displaying their flukes, penguins waddling on ice, and seals resting on icebergs. We encountered three species of penguins: Adelie, Gentoo, and Chinstrap, each providing incredible photographic moments.

We encountered numerous leopard seals, Weddell seals, and fur seals, all providing amazing photographic subjects.

Humpback whale starting to dive in front of Adelie penguins hanging out on some icebergs

Antarctic tern over our zodiac

Definitively a wildlife photographers dream. In total, we spent approximately nine days on the Polar Pioneer, and I took more than 30,000 photos.

Lonely Gentoo penguin on a nice blue iceberg

Photography Gear: What We Brought

A major question leading up to the trip was: what camera gear should we bring? Should we prioritize lightweight zoom lenses or bring the “big guns”? In the end, we opted for a mix and used almost everything.

I carried a Nikon Z9 and a Nikon Z8. While on the zodiac, I primarily used the Z9 with a 70-200mm lens, sometimes combined with a 1.4x or 2.0x teleconverter. This setup provided ample reach while allowing easy maneuverability. My Z8 typically had a 24-70mm lens for wider shots or for when whales came particularly close.

Be prepared: your gear will take a beating in the tight spaces of a zodiac!

For landings, my Z9 was paired with a 400mm f/2.8 lens with a built-in teleconverter, while my Z8 carried the 24-70mm.

I also packed a 14-30mm wide-angle lens, which I used sparingly—fewer than 100 shots. However, some of my best images were taken with it, so I would definitely bring it again.

Wide angle shot of a Leopard Seal from the zodiac

Andrea carried a Nikon Z8 and a Z7. Instead of a large prime telephoto lens, she used a 180-600mm zoom, and instead of the 24-70mm and 70-200mm, she opted for a 24-200mm. This setup worked perfectly and was considerably lighter.

Final Thoughts

Antarctica exceeded all our expectations. The landscapes, the wildlife, and the unique photographic opportunities made it an absolute dream destination. The combination of Wildphoto and Amazing Views ensured that the experience was both seamless and unforgettable.

Would we do it again? In a heartbeat.